Chatuchak Market: Bangkok’s Mother of All Markets

Chatuchak Weekend Market’s significance goes beyond its massive size and the variety of its offerings.

Its roots date back to the 1940s when Thai prime minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram - who is credited with inventing pad thai - mandated that every town should have its own flea market to boost local trade.

In accordance with this, Bangkok established its first market in 1942 in Sanam Luang in the Phra Nakhon district. After a few months, the government decided to shift the market to Sanam Chai some 20 kilometres away as the first site was needed for ceremonies commemorating the king’s coronation anniversary.

However, the new location was too small to accommodate the fast-growing number of traders. As a result, the market moved back to Sanam Luang in 1958, where it operated for the next 15 years.

In 1975, prime minister Kriangsak Chamanan ordered the market to be relocated once again as he had plans to use its grounds for recreational activities and special ceremonies.

A new location, south of Chatuchak Park, was identified. All the merchants relocated to the area, which was initially called Phahonyothin Market.

The market was officially renamed Chatuchak Weekend Market in 1987. That same year, the market administration and the Thai-Chinese Merchant Association erected a clock tower in the market compound to commemorate the 60th birthday of King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

Now the market’s landmark, the iconic clock tower also serves as a reliable reference point for disoriented visitors who find themselves lost amid the maze of stalls.

For first-timers, brace yourselves for a true feast for the senses. At every corner, you’ll see customers haggling with traders for the best prices, hear buskers belting out popular tunes and smell the tantalising aroma of local dishes wafting through the air.

Walk through the labyrinth of stalls selling clothing and you’ll come across an assortment of garments including cute Cookie Monster T-shirts, linen shirts and tie-dyed sundresses.

For bits and bobs to spruce up your home, pick up an embroidered cushion cover, ceramic bowls and cups, metal and wooden wind chimes and even hand-crafted wooden chairs and tables.

And if you like buying souvenirs, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Choose from an array of local products like scented candles, incense sticks, handmade notebooks, pashminas, fridge magnets and even customised luggage tags and passport holders.

Another major highlight of the Chatuchak Weekend Market experience is sampling some of the country’s best culinary offerings.

You’ll find vendors dishing out classic street food like mango sticky rice, moo ping (grilled pork skewers) and the sai ua, juicy, lemongrass-filled sausages from the north.

Tuck into some fiery curries from the south,* khao soi* (coconut curry noodle soup) from Chiang Mai or the ubiquitous Isan fermented pork sausages.

There’s also a wide selection of halal food available at the market. Take your pick from delectable kebabs, biryani and an array of local treats such as Thai fish cakes, beef noodle soup and green beef curry.

And after an arduous day of shopping (or just navigating the market), there’s nothing like a cold one or a soothing Thai massage to cap off your day.

Chatuchak Weekend Market is open from 9am to 6pm every Saturday and Sunday. Plant traders also do business from 7am to 6pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays, while the wholesale section operates from 6pm to midnight on Fridays.

It’s best to come early to beat the throngs of visitors, as well as the afternoon heat. Some traders believe that the first customer of the day is good luck and will be more inclined to give you a discount to make the sale - another early bird perk.

Remember to be an eco-conscious traveller and bring a bag for your loot. If you have bought more than you can carry, suitcases are available for purchase too.

If, for any reason, you need to leave the market for a bit, you can store your purchases in on-site lockers. For wholesale shoppers or those buying bulky items, you can make use of the courier services here to ship your purchases home.