How Malaysia’s Roti Benggali Got Its Name
Hint: It has nothing to do with Bengal.
There exists in Malaysia a bread known as roti benggali, a type of white loaf sold mainly by Indian Muslims.
Characterised by a crisp, golden crust and fluffy, white crumb, the bread is perfect for making toast or to sop up soups, and has been enjoyed by locals for decades.
But despite its name, the bread doesn’t have the slightest thing to do with Bengalis or Bengal. (And, contrary to popular belief, also nothing to do with Punjabi Sikhs, who are sometimes erroneously referred to as “Bengali” in Malaysia.)
It began with a partnership
Not from Bengal but farther south. Image: Instagram @luvbymh
The story of roti benggali can be traced back to the northern Malaysian state of Penang during the interwar period.
In 1928, an Indian Muslim man from Madras (now Chennai) by the name of Sheikh Mohd Ismail opened British Malaya Bakery in George Town to make this bread.
As he had set up the bakery with his friends, the bread was called “roti panggali” - panggalimeans “partners” in Tamil and is used to refer to close friends or business associates.
Freshly baked roti benggali at Maliia Bakery. Image: Instagram @irwan_ariffin
The bakery was renamed twice, first to Malaya Bakery then to Ismalia Bakery, before it finally closed its doors in the 1990s.
The bread, too, changed names during those years. Over time, panggali was corrupted into “benggali”, and the name has stuck ever since.
Keeping the flame alive
There are still three bakeries in Penang that make this delightful, old school loaf.
Toasting roti benggali over charcoal. Image: Instagram @loml_naphat
The first is Maliia Bakery, which opened in 2007 and occupies the same heritage building on Jalan Transfer that used to house Ismalia Bakery.
The other two are Patchee Bakery on Jalan Datuk Keramat and Uni Bakery on Jalan Kampung Pisang in Ayer Itam.
You can also get a loaf from the roti man who makes his way through the neighbourhood selling bread and snacks.
How to enjoy it
A roti man making roti kahwin. Image: Instagram @opah_nel
There are many mouthwatering ways to savour the fine-crumbed roti benggali.
The easiest way is to grab a couple of slices, spread a generous amount of margarine onto one and kaya (coconut jam) onto the other and slap the two pieces together.
This popular combination is known as roti kahwin or “marriage bread”, ostensibly because the two ingredients are a match made in heaven.
If you’re lucky enough to have a roti man in your area, they may be able to fix up some roti kahwin for you using a small slicing board in the back of their ride.
A slice of roti benggali goes perfectly with mutton soup. Image: Instagram @callmi_chelle
Pair this with kopi O or sweetened black coffee for the perfect kopitiam (coffee shop) treat - be sure to dunk the bread into the coffee for the full experience.
Otherwise, you can dip the bread into sup kambing (mutton soup), curry or soft-boiled eggs for a full flavour explosion.